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Angel (LCD/LED) EQ Delrin bolt install
EGO
Impulse
EQ bolt install
             trigger install
             valve cap install (HVVC)
             hammer install
             hammer cap install
             HFV & AHFV install
             LPR/ANS Ult. Combo install
             Valve install
             Slik Shot install
ION
     QEV install
             trigger install
             Spring Detents
Matrix
  ASA adapter 15* LED & LCD
             ASA adapter straight LED & LCD
             Breech
On/Off  Combo Install

Shocker Bolt install
              Adjustable Bolt Guide 
              Roller Trigger install

Tippmann EVT Piston Housing Install
                  Bolt, Power Tube Install
                  F6 Tornado & Hot Rod Install

General Clamp Feednecks (threaded)

 

 

































Angel LED, LCD, IR3 "Equalizer" Bolt Install

1. Remove air source from the marker.
2. Turn and lock breech knob, open access door and remove stock bolt.
3. Replace with new bolt, close door and lock breech.
4. Re-chrono then readjust your input regulator pressure or dwell for the new increased velocity.
5. Do NOT LUBE the Delrin bolts at all. They are designed for dry, smooth, no drag operation.




Ego/ Intimidator/ Impulse "Equalizer" Bolt Install

1. Remove air source from the marker.
2. Remove the stock bolt and retaining pin.
3. Replace with new bolt and pin. Bolt air passage must face downward.
4. Adjust your input regulator pressure or dwell for the increased velocity.
5. Do NOT LUBE the Delrin bolts at all. They are designed for dry, smooth, no drag operation.






Impulse/ Shocker Trigger Install

1. Remove air source from the marker..
2. Remove the 2 c-clips from trigger/ frame housing. Toothpicks work great and won't scratch the body.
    Careful in removing these, they tend to fly off. Try to keep your finger over the clips during removal.
3. Slide pins out, remember proper pin location.
4. Slide the trigger down and out of the frame.
5. Make sure that the NDZ trigger top set screw is flush or below
    the surface of the trigger prior to installation. * Failure to do so can result
    in a bent/ broken micro switch on the circuit board. *
6. Slide in the trigger and simply reverse steps 1-3
7. Now adjust your trigger with the provided allen wrench. We recommend adjusting the top screw first.
    NOTE - Read your owners manual before installation, as it may affect your warranty.





Impulse Hammer Caps
1. Remove air source from the marker.
2. Remove the stock hammer cap from the marker.
3. Be careful not to loose the O-ring that is at the base were the cap screws into.
4. Screw in new hammer cap. Use a 1/8 allen wrench to lightly snug cap. "Do NOT over tighten"
5. Users who had the slotted (hollow) cap, re-chrono then readjust your input pressure or dwell to lower     your new found velocity increase.





Impulse High Volume Valve Cap (HVVC)
1. Remove air source from the marker.
2. Remove the stock valve cap from the marker.
3. Place the new O-ring on the new cap and screw on by hand onto the marker body.
4. Slightly tighten or snug by hand. Use a 3/16 allen wrench if needed.
5. Re-chrono then readjust your input pressure or dwell to lower your new found velocity increase.






Impulse HFV and 15* AHFV Adapters (Isolation Modification)

1. Remove air source from the marker.
2. Remove vertical adapter or pipe threaded fitting from bottom of marker.
3. Now, using a 3/32 allen wrench remove the 10-32 screw, then clean the residue around threads.
4. Using a small drop of (Blue) Loctite on the NDZ air bleed screw and install. (it may screw in a little tight).     Keep in mind the location of the cross hole within the grub screw. Screw the grub screw in until  its flush     with the bottom of the marker. Then turn the screw in 1-2 turns with the cross hole pointing in  towards the     center of the solenoid chamber.(this is just approx.). The solenoid chamber has the pipe plugs on the front     and back of the marker.
5. Install your HFV, using our high flow vert screw, use a 3/16 allen wrench for this.
6. Now you can install a vertical regulator or a gadget grip. All completed without ever touching a tap.





Impulse LPR/ANS Ultimate Combo Install

1. Remove air source from the marker.
2. Remove the barrel, stock valve cap and pipe plug next to the valve cap.
3. Clean the threads removing any foreign debris.
4. Install the 2 (small)-009 O-rings onto LPR nipple, screw into the marker body and lightly tighten.
5. Install the large O-ring on the new valve cap, then install the new LPR/ANS combo and tighten by hand.

6. For proper alignment, loosen the 4 small set screws at the base of the ANS regulator a 1/4 turn, then rotate     the ANS regulator body clockwise until the 90° swivel fitting is facing into or towards the LPR nipple.     Lightly re-tighten the 4 screws at the base of the ANS regulator. CAUTION - The small screws can strip     easily.
7. Install the small LPR hose that is provided.
8. Before you air the marker up, back off the ANS regulator knob so you feel slight spring tension. Stock     Impulse users can start by setting your input pressure around 180-200psi, dwell @ 10 beeps and LPR     pressure around 120psi. Users with NDZ upgrades can initially set input pressures around 140-150psi with     the bolt pressure ranging from 55-90psi and dwell ranging from 8-12 beeps. To properly check LPR     pressures special equipment is needed, such as a low pressure gauge and a means of connecting it to the     hose port of the LPR regulator. Another means is by feel. Use CAUTION if you try this method. Be careful     as you can pinch your finger between the body and the bolt pin causing severe pain. If you can hold the bolt     pin back with ease using your finger during firing, then your pressures are on the low side.





Impulse RIP Valve Install

1. Remove air source from marker.
2. Remove bolt pin and bolt.
3. Remove the valve cap, spring and valve.
4. Unscrew the complete hammer assembly from the back of the marker.
5. Remove the two screws that hold the grip frame and solenoid tray to the body.
    Separate the grip frame from the body. If you have a non-Vision Impulse be careful when removing the grip     frame and solenoid tray and remember to disconnect the wire going from the board to the solenoid.
    Vision Impulse owners, you will need to remove the ball detent on the eye side of the marker as well as the     eye cover. Disconnect the Vision eye board from the solenoid, then remove the two screws that hold the     Vision eye board in place.
6. Remove the allen screw that is on the underside of the body, this is the screw that holds the valve body in     place.
7. Remove the stock valve body from the (BACK) of your Impulse, push it from the front. It will not fit out the     front.
8. Install the provided O-ring onto the High Flow Valve. Lube them with some Dow 33.
9. Insert the rounded side first into the back of the Impulse. When installed correctly the hammer will come     forward and hit the little dimple shown on the left side of the picture above. Make sure that the angled hole     is facing up and the solid hole is on the bottom.
10. Push the High Flow Valve up into the Impulse until it lines up with the hole in the bottom of the Impulse       body.
11. Screw in the valve screw so that it is flush with the body.
12. Put the Valve Cap back on. Do not put the stock valve spring back in.
13. Since it is out, clean and lube the hammer assembly. Then screw that back in place.
14. If you have Vision, install the Vision eye board, eye cover and eye side ball detent.
15. If you have a non-Vision Impulse, connect the solenoid to the board.
16. Reattach the solenoid tray and trigger frame to the body.
17. Put the bolt back. Make sure it's not upside down and make sure that the bolt pin catches the hammer.

 

Impulse "Slik Shot" Shaft Install

This can be a little tricky. Follow the instructions closely and please TAKE YOUR TIME!!

1. Remove air source from the marker.
2. Remove the Hammer assembly.
3. Remove the Hammer Cap.
4. Clean out any Dow 33 from behind the ram.
5. Next you will need a 1/8" Allen key. This step involves removing the hammer from the stock ram shaft.     To do this you will first need to heat the hammer to loosen the green Loctite that is used to hold it in place.     CAUTION: Be careful not to overheat the hammer as it will transfer the heat down the ram shaft and     possibly melt the bumper or O-ring. When you feel that you have loosened the Loctite, you will need to     grip the hammer in a fashion that will not destroy it and use the 1/8" allen key to remove the ram shaft.     This is MUCH harder than it appears. We do offer a special tool for hammer removal. Try an old leather     belt (not the mesh kind) and wrapped it around the hammer 2x. Then I squeezed the leather wrapped     hammer in a vice. I was then able to put the allen key in the back of the hammer assembly and tap it with a     hammer until it started to move. The key here is NOT TO DESTROY THE HAMMER, unless you have a     new one to replace it.
6. Once the hammer is removed from the ram shaft, remove the ram shaft from the hammer assembly. Do     not lose either of the bumpers. There are two bumpers, one on the outside of the hammer assembly to     protect the hammer from hitting the assembly and one on the INSIDE to protect the ram shaft from hitting     the hammer assembly. NOTE: If either one of these bumpers are not installed, you will risk damaging your     hammer assembly.
7. Remove the O-ring from the front of the hammer assembly and replace with the one provided.
    If it's not already installed put the other O-ring that was provided on the Slick Shot Ram Shaft.
8. Put the Slick Shot Ram into the hammer assembly.
9. Put the bumper on the ram shaft. If you forget this part it will really SUCK to have to take it apart to fix.
10. Next using a little (Blue) Loctite on the shaft threads, thread the hammer onto the ram shaft. Wipe off the     excess Loctite. Do not over tighten the hammer onto the shaft. Only use light finger pressure to screw the     hammer onto the shaft. Screw the hammer onto the shaft until it stops, do not try and twist it any further on     to the shaft.
11. Let the Loctite cure for 12 hours before putting the assembly back together.





Impulse Hammer Install

This can be a little tricky. Follow the instructions closely and please TAKE YOUR TIME!!

1. Remove air source from the marker.
2. Remove the Hammer assembly.
3. Remove the Hammer Cap.
4. Clean out any Dow 33 from behind the ram.
5. Next you will need a 1/8" Allen key. This step involves removing the hammer from the stock ram shaft.     To do this you will first need to heat the hammer to loosen the green Loctite that is used to hold it in place.     CAUTION: Be careful not to overheat the hammer as it will transfer the heat down the ram shaft and     possibly melt the bumper or O-ring. When you feel that you have loosened the Loctite, you will need to     grip the hammer in a fashion that will not destroy it and use the 1/8" allen key to remove the ram shaft.     This is MUCH harder than it appears. Try an old leather belt (not the mesh kind) and wrapped it around     the hammer 2x. Then I squeezed the leather wrapped hammer in a vice. I was then able to put the allen     key in the back of the hammer assembly and tap it with a hammer until it started to move. The key here is     NOT TO DESTROY YOUR STOCK HAMMER, unless you have a new one to replace it.
6. Once the hammer is removed from the ram shaft, clean the threads.
7. Now make sure that the bumper is still on the shaft. Next using a little (Blue) Loctite on the shaft threads,     thread the new hammer onto the ram shaft. Wipe off the excess Loctite. Do not over tighten the     hammer onto the shaft. Only use light finger pressure to screw the hammer onto the shaft. Screw the     hammer onto the shaft until it stops, do not try and twist it any further on to the shaft.
8. Let the Loctite cure for 12 hours before putting the assembly back together.



ION QEV/ MEV installation
1. Remove the grip frame from the gun body per instruction manual.
2. Unscrew the front banjo fitting from the body (the one right next to the eye connector).
3. Pull the banjo fitting off the 1/8" OD tubing (push the fittings gray end cap while pulling out the tubing).
4. Spin the QEV assembly into the front port of the body (where the old banjo fitting was). Please do not     over tighten as the QEV threads can break - just make sure that the sealing o-ring is slightly compressed and     that the silver quick disconnect fitting points to the rear of the gun.
5. Trim 1/4" off of the 1/8" OD tubing (as the new QEV assembly sticks out further than the banjo fitting had)
6. Insert the end of the 1/8" OD tubing into the silver fitting on the QEV assembly.
7. Reassemble, gas up, check for leaks, and then go play. For more info visit the ION FAQ







ION Spring Detent installation
1. Remove the grip frame from the gun body per instruction manual.
2. Unscrew the front, rear banjo fitting from the body & unplug the eye connector.
3. Slide the breech/ fire can assembly out of the body, and remove stock detents.
4. Install new detents, smaller side first. Then install spring, large end against detent. We recommend you     tape them in place.
5. Reassemble, in reverse. Do not over tighten banjo fittings, especially if you have a QEV installed. Gas up,     check for leaks, and then go play. For more info visit the ION FAQ





ION trigger installation

1. Remove the grips.
2. Disconnect/ remove the battery.
3. Remove the three screws holding the trigger frame to the body. One under barrel
4. While lifting the body from the trigger frame, and at the same time apply a little pressure to the bottom of the     solenoid pushing it up through the top of the trigger frame.
5. When enough of the trigger frame is exposed, use a 1/8" allen key and remove the front banjo.
6. Fully separate the trigger frame from the body.
7. Remove the stock trigger from the trigger frame.
8. Use a nail or small punch tool and remove the stock trigger pivot pin.  IMPORTANT: this pin is pushed     from the side of the trigger frame that does NOT have the on/off button. 
9. Once the pin is removed, remove the trigger out the top of the frame.
10. Before installing the trigger, back out the switch activation set screw 3-4 turns. This will prevent you from      damaging the micro-switch during reassembly.
11. Install the new trigger from the top of the trigger frame. Some triggers can be installed from the bottom       through the trigger guard area. However on some, due to the powder coating you may find some sharp       points that could prevent the trigger from going in easily.
12. Once the trigger is installed, install the newly supplied precision ground trigger pivot pin.
13. Install the side of the pin that is not crimped first or bearing damage will result. IMPORTANT: install the       pin only from the side of the trigger frame that has the on/off button. This keeps the bearings from being       pressed out of the trigger.
14. Reassembly.  Simply reverse the disassembly process.
15. CAREFULLY slide the board back into the trigger frame.  Make sure that the board lines up with the       groves.
16. When the board is about 1/4 installed, re-connect the front banjo fitting.
17. Slowly and carefully push the board all the way back into the trigger frame, bringing the body and frame       back together.
18. Re-install the three screws holding the trigger frame to the body then connect the battery. For more info       visit the ION FAQ


MATRIX ASA adapter 15* LED & LCD
1. Remove air source from the marker.
2. Remove the regulator then remove the old ASA adapter.
3. Two screws are supplied with this adapter, one for the older LED's and the other for LCD's.
4. Using the correct screw, place the O-ring on top of adapter and install ASA to the Matrix body. Do not     over tighten and please do not use Teflon tape. Nothing is needed as the O-ring does all the sealing.
5. Reinstall the regulator and hook up the hose. Now it time to go play.

 

 

MATRIX ASA adapter straight
1. Remove air source from the marker.
2.
Remove the regulator then remove the old ASA adapter.
3. One screw is supplied with this adapter, and it's for the older LED bodies.
4. Newer LED & LCD users will reuse the stock ASA screw.
5. Using the correct screw screw, place the O-ring on top of adapter and install ASA to the Matrix body. Do     not over tighten and please do not use Teflon tape. Nothing is needed as the O-ring does all the sealing.
6. Reinstall the regulator, hook up the hose and now your ready to play.






MATRIX Breech install
1. Remove air source from the marker.
2.
Remove the feedneck from the old breech, you may need to apply some heat and a strap wrench to loosen     it up. You can find a rubber strap wrench at Sears, Home Depot etc.
3. Install the Impulse threaded style ball detents in the new breech. **Use only small length detents, DO     NOT
 use the long or Vision side ball detents or damage to your bolt will occur.**
4. Install the feedneck, you can use some blue Loctite otherwise know as removable on the feedneck threads.
5. Make sure you wipe off any excess Loctite from the breech, both inside and out.
6. Reinstall the new breech, secure with breech knob and your all done.


 

 

ON/Off Rail Combo install
1. Remove air source from the marker.
2.
Remove air fitting, then remove your old on/off.
3. Loosen set screw using 3/32 allen key on new rail 1 turn, then slide rail off.

4. We strongly recommend this as a PRECAUTION. Remove 2-3 screws from one side of the grip. This     allows you to see if the rail mounting screws will hit your board. 99% of them do not come even close.
5. Once the rail has been tightened, slide On/off body onto rail and tighten side set screw.
6. Reinstall air fitting that was removed in set #2, connect hose and your all done.


SFT Shocker Bolt Install
Tools Needed - Before you begin, you will need a 3/16 allen key and some Dow 33 lube.

First, you will need to remove your stock bolt assembly, all 4 components and set them aside for now.

The NDZ bolt kit is prelubed, but you will still need to lube the outside o-rings and side seal o-rings. You must clean and re-lube the rear bolt guide and bolt actuating body as these components are re-used. Now you can install our kit. Stack all the bolt parts together. Take the 2 -016 o-rings out of the bag, lube and place the o-rings on the sides of the firing can. It's easier to hold in place with your thumb and finger to guide them into the body. These o-rings seal the side holes on your Shocker body so they NEED to be in the proper place. The bolt guide should screw in easily and not bind at all, if it does stop and try again. You do not want to cross thread the Shocker body or damage the bolt guide threads.

The NDZ high efficiency low pressure bolt kit offers the most volume of any bolt kit, while working on the basic principles of a sealed type firing system. The extensively hogged out firing can offers the most volume available, thus allowing low pressure operation. The bolt itself is specially treated to reduce friction and we even go as far to increase the I.D. on the bolt were the angled wholes are to reduce wear and friction on the bolt guide o-rings.

Setup - With the reduced friction and increased air flow properties of our bolt we normally run much lower dwell settings and input pressures. Start with an input pressure of around 170psi and bottom out the dwell. Then continue to increase your dwell settings while firing the marker each time until the marker fires completely. Then increase the dwell by about 2 beeps. Check for first shop drop off (FSDO). If none, then continue. If FSDO exists, increase dwell 1 beep until FSDO is eliminated. To achieve your target velocity, increase the input pressure into the marker until achieved.

Kit Contents - 2 -016/70 Urethane o-rings for side seal of the firing can, 1 bolt assy with firing can and all o-rings, 1 spare bolt guide bumper.






Shocker Adjustable Bolt Guide Adjustment
1. The bolt guide as shipped is set to stock length.
2. To reduce velocity. Loosen the larger 7/32 allen key piece on the back, otherwise known as the lock cap.  3. Using a smaller 3/16 allen key, turn the shaft section inward "clockwise".  This extends the length of the tip delaying the firing of the marker thus bringing down the velocity. There is no need to tighten the rear lock cap super tight. There is an o-ring in between the lock cap and the center shaft section that will keep if from loosening. Our bolt guide allows velocities below 250fps while having the marker shoot consistently.

NOTE: You may find working on it easier with the unit out of the marker, as you can grip the center section with your hand when your reinstalling the rear lock cap.

* If your taking out the bolt guide, be sure to unscrew it using a 3/16 allen key

 

 



Tippmann EVT Housing Install
Tools needed - Philips & standard screw driver, pliers and some gun oil or Dow 33 grease)

Ok, lets get started.
We can't stress this enough, make sure sure there is no tank on your marker and NO remaining air inside.
1.
Using a screw driver, remove the air fitting from your Cyclone piston housing. Do not loose the seal between the fitting and the housing.
2. With the marker upside down, remove the 4 philips screws that hold on the Cyclone feed cover.
3. Slightly lift up on the piston housing, this will loosen the bottom cover for easy removal
4. Take a look at the parts placement before touching anything.. This will make for easy assembly.
5. Place a thumb over the center of the parts in the Cyclone feed, holding the parts down.
6. Slightly lift up on the housing again, this will move it out of its groove. Now you simply slide it off.
7. Now lets remove the thumb actuator from the old piston housing.
8. Using a small set of pliers, lightly grip the exposed shaft while using something in between the pliers so you don't mark or make teeth marks in the shaft.
9. Unscrew the knob from the shaft.
10. Lightly lube or oil orings with either paint gun oil or Dow 33
11. Transfer the shaft and knob to your EVT housing.
12. Slide your new EVT housing over the piston/ spring assembly.
13. Slightly lift up on the EVT, and slide until it matches up with the groove in the Cyclone housing, then slide the plastic sleeve into the housing so the whole assy drops nicely into place.
14. Replace all the screws, air fitting then tighten and go have some fun!!!! Caution, do not over tighten, remember its only plastic.
Enjoy from NDZ






Tippmann A5, X7 Power Tube or Bolt Install
Tools needed - Philips & standard screw driver, pliers and some gun oil or Dow 33 grease)

Ok, lets get started.
We can't stress this enough, make sure sure there is no tank on your marker and NO remaining air inside.
1.

 

 


Feedneck Installation (Threaded version install)
Tools recommended. A strap wrench, Blue Loctite (serviceable), heat and some muscle. Blue Loctite can be found in small tubes in hardware stores, and automotive parts stires as well. Do NOT use RED Loctite, or you will have a hard time removing whatever you just applied it to.
1. You can use either a blow dryer or run hot water over the feedneck for about a minute or so without soaking your marker. This will soften/loosen the Loctite that was installed at the factory.
2. Using a strap wrench, our choice is a plastic/rubber one made by Craftsman as this will not scratch anything. Now, loosen the feedneck counterclockwise. As the old rule goes, righty tighty, lefty loosy. At the shop, depending how tight the feedneck is. We may also choose to install something in the feedneck to give it support so it will not bend or crush inwards.
3. Once removed, clean out the threads of any old Loctite. Now, put a couple of drops of Blue Loctite on the threads of the new feedneck and install. It should thread on without using any force. If it starts to thread on hard, STOP and try again. A cross thread situation is something you do not want and you run the risk of ruining your feedneck and or your marker body.







 

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